A silent reflection of a truly awesome surroundings, brooding Wastwater is a mysterious, evocative lake. Along its eastern side loom walls of sheer scree over 600 m high. Beneath them the water looks inky black, whatever the weather. You can walk along the scree, but it is an uncomfortable and very dangerous scramble.

Wasdale Head offers one of the Britain’s grandest views: the austere pyramid of Great Gable, centerpiece of a fine mountain range, alongside the huge forms of Scafell and Scafell Pike. This irresistible backdrop inspired the first serious British mountaineers, who flocked here during the 19th century, insouciantly clad in tweed jackets and carrying little more than a length of rope slung over their shoulders.

You don’t need to be a climber to get great shots of Wastwater. There are spectacular viewpoints on the road along the western edge and from paths to the shore at the top of the lake, especially when the water is dark-mirror still.